If a thief uses your name, Social Security number, or bank account, the fallout spreads. A fake card turns into a collection call. A fraudulent tax return stalls your refund. You need one clean record first, then copies of it for every bank, bureau, and agency that asks.
For U.S. victims, that record is the FTC Identity Theft Report. Create it at IdentityTheft.gov. The site gives you an affidavit and a recovery plan. It does not replace a police report. Keep the PDF handy for later calls.
One exception. If money is missing from your bank account right now, call your bank first. Then file the FTC report. If your tax refund is stuck, file the FTC report and IRS Form 14039. The order shifts with the damage.
What the FTC report actually does
The report is a sworn statement that someone used your identity. Banks, credit bureaus, and some agencies treat it as proof when you dispute accounts. IdentityTheft.gov also builds a checklist based on your situation. The FTC says the report and recovery plan point to your next steps (FTC stolen identity page).
It is not a criminal complaint. It will not start a prosecution, and it will not force a bank to refund money. You still have to meet the bank's deadline and supply the evidence it asks for.
| Document | Best use | Limits |
|---|---|---|
| FTC Identity Theft Report | Affidavit for disputes, credit bureaus, agencies | No investigation, no guaranteed refund |
| Police report | Criminal record, insurance, some agencies | Local rules vary; may not lead to arrest |
| Credit freeze | Blocks most new credit inquiries | Does not fix existing fraud |
| Fraud alert | Warns businesses to verify identity | Less strict than freeze |
Step 1: File the FTC Identity Theft Report
- Go to IdentityTheft.gov and pick the type of theft.
- Answer questions about what happened, when, and what was taken.
- Upload documents if you have them. Screenshots and statements help.
- Save the report and recovery plan as PDFs.
- Print two copies or keep them on your phone.
Gather what you have before you start. A folder, a phone full of screenshots, or a pile of mail from accounts you never opened should be nearby. The form moves faster when you are not hunting for the last statement while the clock runs.
- Government-issued ID
- Bank or credit card statements showing the fraud
- Emails, texts, or letters from the thief or a debt collector
- Any police report or case number you already have
Do not send your full Social Security number by regular email. Use the portal or the agency's secure upload.
Step 2: File a police report in your city or county
Call the non-emergency line, or check whether your police department has an online reporting system. Bring your FTC report, ID, and proof of the fraud. Ask for a case number before you leave.
If the first officer says identity theft is not handled locally, ask which unit does. Some departments route these cases to a financial crimes or cybercrimes unit.
File the police report even if you doubt it will lead to an arrest. Banks, insurers, and some agencies ask for it later. An extended fraud alert can also use a police report or an FTC report.
Step 3: Contact the credit bureaus
Contact Equifax, Experian, or TransUnion. You do not need to call all three to start. The bureau you contact must notify the other two. The FTC explains the process on its credit freeze and fraud alert page.
| Protection | What it does | How long |
|---|---|---|
| Credit freeze | Blocks most access to your credit report for new accounts | Until you lift it |
| Initial fraud alert | Asks businesses to verify identity | One year |
| Extended fraud alert | Stronger alert for documented identity theft | Seven years, with an FTC or police report |
Use a freeze if you want the strongest block. A fraud alert is lighter. You can have both, but a freeze usually does more work.
After that, dispute each fraudulent account. Send the bureau a copy of your FTC report, police report, and any statement showing the account is not yours. Keep proof of mailing or upload.
Step 4: Dispute the money loss by payment type
Not all payment problems follow the same rules. The rail matters.
| Payment type | First move | Key deadline or limit |
|---|---|---|
| Credit card | Call the card issuer's fraud line, then follow up in writing if asked | Billing dispute rights are time-limited; act as soon as you see the charge |
| Debit card, ACH, or bank transfer | Call your bank or credit union | Notify the bank within 60 days after it sends the statement showing the unauthorized transaction |
| P2P app like Zelle, Venmo, or Cash App | Contact the app and your linked bank | Rules depend on the app and bank; speed matters |
| Wire or money order | Contact the bank or issuer immediately | Recalls are not guaranteed; report to police |
For bank accounts, the CFPB says you must notify your bank within 60 days after it sends the statement with the unauthorized transaction. Wait longer, and you could owe more of the loss. If the bank asks for a written follow-up, send it within 10 business days. If you do not, the bank may not have to keep a temporary credit in place while it investigates. The bank generally has 45 days to resolve the dispute unless an exception applies. See the CFPB unauthorized transaction guidance.
Turns out, the deadline often starts when the bank sends the statement, not when you notice the missing money. Get any denial in writing if the bank says no. Then escalate. The CFPB complaint system and your state attorney general are the usual next stops.
Step 5: Notify the IRS, SSA, DMV, and other agencies
Tax identity theft has its own form. If someone used your SSN to file a return or get a tax benefit, individuals use IRS Form 14039. The IRS may place a marker on your account if you provide the required proof. Check the IRS instructions before mailing anything.
Social Security and driver's license problems follow the issuing agency. Contact the SSA if someone used your SSN for work or benefits. Contact your state DMV if someone used your license number or got a license in your name. Ask what proof they need. Do not assume the FTC report alone will fix those records.
Also tell your health insurer, utility companies, and phone provider if the thief opened accounts there. Those debts can land on your credit report later.
What usually goes wrong
People file one report and stop. That leaves gaps. A freeze does not remove a fraudulent account. A fraud alert does not block every lender. A police report may sit without an arrest. The FTC report helps, but it is a tool, not a magic switch.
Thing is, deadlines are the real trap. Bank disputes, credit card billing errors, and IRS responses all have clocks. Miss a bank deadline, and you can lose leverage. Put every date on a calendar.
Keep a simple log. Date, person you spoke with, reference number, and what they promised. If you send mail, use certified mail and keep the receipt.
A practical order for the first 24 hours
Call the bank if cash is moving. File the FTC report. Contact one credit bureau and ask for a freeze or fraud alert. File the police report. Then work through IRS, SSA, DMV, and other agencies as they apply. That order covers most cases without wasting a day on the wrong call.
Common questions
Do I need both an FTC report and a police report?
Not always. The FTC report is the core document. A police report helps with criminal complaints, insurance, and some agency requests. If you want an extended fraud alert, you can use either an FTC report or a police report.
Can I dispute an account without an FTC report?
You can try, but the FTC report makes the dispute stronger. Credit bureaus and banks often ask for it.
What if the thief filed my taxes?
File the FTC report and IRS Form 14039. Keep copies of everything you send the IRS.
What if my bank denies the dispute?
Ask for the denial in writing. Then complain to the CFPB or your state attorney general. Include your FTC report, police report, and the bank's denial.
This is general information, not legal advice. Start with IdentityTheft.gov if you have not already. Save the PDF. Then make the first call that protects the account still at risk. For most people, that is the bank or the credit bureau.